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Professor Pow-key Sohn, who lead the Yonsei University Museum’s cave exploration team, discovered the Seokjang-ri Site in Gongju as well as the Jeommal Cave in Jecheon and is known as the father of Korean archeology. He discovered various archeological sites in many regions and overturned the distorted history taught by the Japanese (heteronomy theory, etc.) in a scientific and logical manner. He worked all his life to spread correct information related to Korean history. In 1964, his team discovered the Seokjang-ri Site in Gongju for the first time ever in Korea. His research team continued its search to shed light on ancient history, repress the colonial history taught by Japan, and teach people the correct facts. His team wandered about for seven years or more despite the difficult circumstances, and in June 10, 1973, they came to a cave after receiving a report from Jo Seok-deuk, a scholar of ancient history in Jecheon. Jecheon was peculiar in that it had many caves, and this one revealed large bones, horns, and more that had been sold in an herbal medicine shop... The research team entered the cave two days after being informed of it and collected around 4,000 bone artifacts. They began officially digging at the site of the Jemomal Cave on November 3 and ended up discovering how people lived on the Korean peninsula for hundreds of thousands of years as well as the animals and plants of that time. (Please check out the museum in Seokjan-ri, Gongju fo more information on Pow-key Sohn.) Jeommal Cave is currently registered and maintained as a Natural Monument of Chungcheongbuk-do Province. Jecheon-si is planning to protect the archeological importance of the site while also starting environmental cleanup and the Jeommal Cave Tourism Project in 2020, making it known as one of the greatest sites of prehistoric times in Korea.
“Hoseo” is another term for Chungcheong-do Province, and means, “Region west of the lake.” The lake here is called the Uirimji Reservoir and Forest, No. 20 of the Scenic Sites of South Korea. Uirimji Reservoir is the oldest reservoir in Korea. Its historical and cultural value cannot be overstated, as it is an agricultural irrigation facility that has been in use since ancient times and still is still being used today. It is not clear when Uirimji Reservoir was first built, but judging from the fact that it was called “Naeto” when it belonged to Goguryeo and that embankments are estimated to have been built in around 800, the date is estimated to have been during the Samhan Era. Some claim it was built by the musician Ureuk but this remains a theory as there is no clear proof of such.
Uirimji Reservoir is the first among the Ten Scenic Sites of Jecheon. It boasts great scenery with the Yeonghojeong Pavilion (built in 1807) and Gyeonghoru Pavilion (built in 1948) as well as the forest (housing hundreds of of old pine trees and willows) which passed the last 100-200 years together with Uirimji Reservoir. Records mention the Ureuk Stone (Yeonjaam) where the musician Ureuk is said to have played his gayageum, as well as many other pavilions and palaces being built around it such as Jinseobheon Pavilion and Howeoljeong Pavilion. It is obvious that it was a dignified cultural space frequented by artists and poets.
Uirimji Reservoir also happens to be the oldest agricultural irrigation facility in existence. The fact that is has been in use since the Samhan Era makes it of invaluable worth. Its worth was recognized, and Uirimji Reservoir is now taking on the aspect of a cultural/historical recreation area rather than the greatest agricultural irrigation facility. A highly dignified cultural tour can be enjoyed with various tourist attractions such as Sukyeong Falls (with a maximum height of 162 meters), the manmade caverns that extend 250 meters, the deck road that overlooks Uirimji Reservoir, the glass observatory placed atop a 30-meter natural waterfall called Yongchu Falls, the Uirimji Bolle-gil, and the second Uirimji’s Biryongdam Ecological Forest Road.
Oksunbong Peak is No. 48 of the Scenic Sites of South Korea. It is a beautiful white and green peak that looks like a bamboo shoot after rain overlooking the Namhangang River. Oksunbong Peak is the eighth among the Ten Scenic Sites of Jecheon. Traveling just five minutes from the rest area to the observatory will allow you to see its beautiful features and powerful peak.
Oksunbong Peak inspired many famous artists and writers since olden times with its beautiful scenery. When Yi Hwang (pen name Toegye) was the governor of Danyang-gun, he asked the governor of Cheongpung-gun to let the area be part of Danyang-gun. He was refused, and instead carved the words “Gateway to Danyang-gun” on a wall of stone on Oksunbong Peak. The learned scholar that he was, he must have liked Oksunbong Peak very much. Gim Hongdo (pen name Danwon) also visited the shores of Cheongpung’s Namhangang River countless times and painted “Oksunbongdo Peak” in a natural landscape style. The vertical peaks are painted as if supporting the sky, and its mystical nature is more pronounced (held by Hoam Museum.) Besides this, the geography book, “Dongukyeojiseunglam,” praised the peak, saying, “The mystical peaks form a harmony that reminds one of Mt. Geumgang. Furthermore the shape of the connected peaks have a curvature that moves with free abandon, holding within it a pristine, natural beauty.” Yi Chung-hwan wrote in “T’aengniji,” “Oksunbong has countless peaks formed completely of stone standing tall as if giants are holding hands.”
Deokjusanseong Fortress is a representative mountain fortress built in the form of a gateway in a strategic location. It was a core location in regard to transport as it connected Gyeongsang-do Province, Chungcheong-do Province, and Hanyang, and was built in a peculiar style (four walls) to act as a defensive fortress. It also has a circumference of 15 km as it is surrounded by the ridges at the foot of Woraksan Mountain as well as valleys, forming a natural stone embankment. Deokjusanseong Fortress is composed of the first wall (inner fortress) or the fortification around the Maaebul (Sangdukjusa Temple) Valley; the second wall (middle fortress) which is the fortification that stretch from the eastern door of Deogjusa Temple to the north and south; the third wall (lower fortress; blocking fortifications) which is the fortification around the entrance to Deokjugol; and the fourth wall (outer fortress) which is the entire Songgye Valley. Each part of the fortress was built in a different year and the whole is considered important for the study of fortresses in the Goryeo Period to the Period of the Joseon Dynasty.
Deokjusanseong Fortress not only boasted its four walls and mountainous location but also many valleys. It appears so many times in historical records that it would not be an overstatement to call it a fortress blessed with natural barriers. When Chungjuseong Fortress fell in the 8th invasion of the Mongols, the residents nearby took refuge here. The most famous story is of how the Mongol soldiers chased them down, but dark clouds suddenly filled the sky and strong winds, thunder, rain, and hail poured down upon them, leading them to conclude that it was a place protected by the gods and retreat. There is another story that has to do with Empress Myeongseong. When the political battle with Heungseon Daewongun appeared to be heavily leaning in his favor, she commanded that a palace be built here (Worakgung Palace; secondary palace). It was completed in 1894. Then came Eulmi Sabyeon and Empress Myeongseong was killed by the Japanese. The Japanese took down the secondary palace and used the materials to build their own buildings. It is now called the site of Worakgung Palace, and only its site remains in front of Hansong Elementary School.
(cf. Queen Myeongseong (Kim) A queen produced by the Cheonpung Kim family in Jecheon. She was the queen of Hyeonjong of Joseon. Hyeonjong had such a happy married life with her that he did not have any concubines.)
This is a stone fortress located at the peak of Mangwolsan Mountain (373 m) on the Namhangang River. It is now at the top of the Jecheon Cheongpung Cultural Complex and offers the beautiful view of Cheongpungho Lake as well as other cultural heritages. It has a great view over the Hangang waterway as well and was influential even in central Korea, a strategic region for Goguryeo, Baekje, and Silla. Did anyone guess the answer to the above question?(You are now officially the smartest person in Jecheon-si.) You got it! ①, ②, and ③ are all correct. They were all names for Mangwolsanseong Fortress in the Baekje Era, Goguryeo Era, and after the Unified Silla Era respectively. It led to that much competition. Not only that, but fortress building methods from all three nations were found here, showing that the location is an important historical resource for the study of fortress characteristics in the era of the Three Kingdoms.
Silleuksa Temple was built in 582 (Silla Era) by Adohwasang. Wonhyo built upon it and fixed it, and other famous classical scholars such as Muhak and Yujeong built further upon his work afterwards. Today, it is a place with thousands of years of history. It had become a ruined temple during Imjinwaeran, but through many repairs, it has reached its current state with a Sansingak and dormitory. It may be small, but with its history spanning back thousands of years, it is home to many unique cultural assets. The first is the most famous, Korea’s National Treasure No. 1296, the Silleuksa Three-story Stone Pagoda. The pagoda has the appearance of a stone tower design from the late Silla Era to early Goryeo Era. It is deemed an important find for the study of stone pagodas from that period. The 108 small towers and reliquaries found inside when it was taken down and restored in 1981 are now on display at the Cheongju National Museum. There is also the Geungnakjeon Hall in Silleuksa Temple, repaired mid-Joseon Era (Chungcheong-do Province Tangible Cultural Asset No. 132), as well as the paintings (Chungcheong Province Tangible Cultural Asset No. 301) and murals of Geungnakjeon Hall boasting splendid colors.
We can guess the exact date of its establishment through the story of Prince Maeui and Princess Deokju as well as famous records such as Misang, Donggukyeojiseunglam, Sinjeungdonggukyeojiseunglam. When Prince Maeui and Princess Deokju were on their way to hide on Mt. Geumgang after Gyeongsun of Silla gave up Silla along with its history spanning back thousands of years to Taejo of Goryeo, they found a spot where they could see the Big Dipper. They found the energy of Woraksan Mountain to be similar to Mt. Geumgang and carved a rock-carved Budda there. They also established Deogjusa Temple. It is said that Princess Deokju spent the rest of her life longing for Prince Maeui, who died whilst very poor on Mt. Geumgang. Deogjusa Temple was large enough to be called Sangdukjusa Temple and Hadukjusa Temple, and records like this one from the coping strategies of the Period of the Joseon Dynasty were found: “Repair Deogjusangsa Temple and prepare as much soybean paste and salt as that for Namhansanseong Fortress.” Judging by such records, we could say that it was a temple with strategic functions such as a monk army, supplies, defense, and so forth. All the structures were lost during the Korean War because it was said that armed communist guerrillas could use them as hiding places. Continuous repair has brought it back to the state we know of today.
We cannot leave out the Standing Rock-carved Buddha at Deogjusa Temple, National Treasure No. 406, from the story of Prince Maeui and Princess Deokju. Standing Rock-carved Buddha at Deogjusa Temple is a rock-carved Buddha made in the design of rock Buddhas from the end of the Silla Era and early Goryeo Era. This design was important; the carving is of great value as a cultural asset, and the legend that speaks of the tragedy of a lost nation and the beautiful love between siblings seems to make it even more so. There is a legend linked with the Standing Rock-carved Buddha at Deogjusa Temple, which says that Prince Maeui and Princess Deokju arrived from Gyeongju on Woraksan Mountain. They stayed there a while, drawn by the beautiful scenery that was akin to Mt. Geumgang, and turned into Maitreya Buddha and and Standing Rock-carved Buddha at Deogjusa Temple, respectively. According to this legend, they meet once a year (Standing Rock-carved Buddha at Deogjusa Temple actually faces south and Maitreya Buddha actually faces north, which is not common for Buddha statues.) Legend says that Princess Deokju, longing for her brother who left towards Mt. Geumgang, could not take the sadness from losing her brother anymore and turned into Standing Rock-carved Buddha at Deogjusa Temple.
Seven-story Stone Brick Pagoda in Jangnak-dong, Jecheon (Treasure No. 459) Stone brick pagodas are an uncommon form of towers in Korea. They are built from rocks carved into the shape of bricks, and that is how they got their name. This tower in particular is made of charcoal gray slate with a height of 9.1 meters. Judging from the style of the tower and the stone-working methods, it is estimated to be from the end of the Unified Silla Period. It is a tall pagoda with a total of seven stories. Each story gets appropriately smaller and the pagoda gives off a solemn atmosphere. It was badly damaged, almost crumbling, from the Korean War, but it was taken apart and restored in 1967. During the restoration, a bronze fragment with a flower engraving was found atop a roof stone on the seventh story, and it is thought that the tip of the tower was originally made with bronze. Jangnaksaji, where this stone brick pagoda was located, is the very first Buddhist site from the era of the Three Kingdoms discovered in Jecheon. The single excavation from 2003 to 2006 and three further investigations revealed various artifacts. These artifacts are being used as precious material for the study of the dissemination paths of ancient culture and the ancient history of the Jecheon region.
The Nine-story Stone Pagoda at Sajabinsinsa Temple Site has a strong feeling of Korean Buddhist patriotism, which arose for the peace and stability of the country. This is what sets it apart from the other pagodas. This pagoda is unique among all Korean pagodas as it serves as the standard for estimating the years in which other pagodas where built thanks to its clearly dated structural, design, and carving methods as well as the fact that the special format of a “saja pagoda” was used.
The Standing Stone Buddha in Multae-ri, Jecheon has the style of Unified Silla in its confident shoulders and voluminous expression, but the unrealistic hands and the distorted body points to a Goryeo Dynasty style as well. As such, it is an important cultural asset that tells us about the Buddhist culture of the Jecheon region in the time of the Goryeo Dynasty. It was made in a place with much water when water itself was very valuable. The stocky and compassionate Buddha seems to reflect this fact very well. Multae-ri was almost entirely submerged in Cheongpungho Lake when Chungju Dam was built. It is now inside a protective facility inside the Cheongpung Cultural Complex.
Hanbyeongnu Pavilion offered such beautiful scenery that it was regarded as one of the top three pavilions in Korea. Prior to being submerged, it was said that with the beautiful scenery surrounding it, it reminded one of a beautiful painting. Song Si-yeol, Gim Jeong-hui, and other famous writers left plaques and signboards about it. It was built as an inn in the late Goryeo Period, but with its clean and elegant appearance, it became the subject of many Chinese poems, paintings, and the like of scholars who loved the scenery of the Period of the Joseon Dynasty. Gim Hongdo painted countless works of it, while Ryu Seong-ryong, Gwon Sang-ha, Jeong Yak-yong, and others wrote Chinese poems and prose. It is quite romantic to read a few of one’s favorite poems in Hanbyeongnu Pavilion, which was one of the most famous gathering spots for poetry clubs in the Period of the Joseon Dynast.
In the year of the fowl, Sejo of Joseon dethroned his nephew, Danjong of Joseon, taking the throne for himself (Gyeyujeongnan). There were famous vassals that opposed this and remained loyal to Danjong of Joseon called the Sayuksin, who plotted to bring Danjong of Joseon back and were executed for it, and the Saengyuksin, who forsook their titles and lived the rest of their lives longing for their king and refusing to leave their fields. The Saengyuksin did not plot a coup like the Sayuksin, but they did not acknowledge Sejo of Joseon as king, forsaking their titles and living their lives in the countryside. Wonho stayed on the outskirts of Jangok-ri, Songhak-myeon (what is now Gwallanjeong Pavilion today) and asked after Danjong of Joseon when he was exiled to Yeongwol by Sejo. When Danjong of Joseon’s title was reduced to Nosangun and buried in Yeongwol, it is said that he raised an altar, cried morning and night, and bowed towards the grave. Sejo of Joseon later called him forth, granting him the title of Hojochameui, but he put his life on the line by continuing to reject the offer. After Wonho died, his descendants and other scholars sought to commemorate his loyalty and put up a tombstone and a pavilion and a memorial stone was put up alongside in his memory. Gwallanjeong Pavilion is a low hill but the landforms that resemble the Korean Peninsula and the Pyongchanggang River, which can be seen from it, are as beautiful as Wonho’s loyalty.
This academy was set up by the Confucian scholar Yu Jung-yo (disciple of Neo-Confucianism scholar Lee Hang-no) near the end of the Period of the Joseon Dynasty. This educational institution was the source of the idea of the Jecheon Righteous Army near the end of the Period of the Joseon Dynasty and had an ideological and strategical impact on the national proliferation of the Jecheon Righteous Army. Yu Jung-yo placed portraits of the dead Juja, Song Si-yeol, and Lee Hang-no and regularly worshiped here. Afterwards, the scholars who continued to keep their teacher’s will (including Yu In-seok) were faced with the ordinance prohibiting topknots and considered what to do. They created an army, killed the pro-Japanese officials, and performed what would be the beginning of the activities of the Jecheon Righteous Army. They later memorialized people like Yu Jung-yo, Yu In-seok, Lee So-eung, and so on. They are commemorated through rites every year at both the Chunhyang Festivals (March 20 and September 20 of the lunar calendar. A maintenance project for Jayangyeongdang Village School was created by Jecheon-si. A “goyuje” is held every October through the Jecheon Righteous Army event. In order to pay respects to the Jecheon Righteous Army, Sunguisa Shrine was built and the “Hojuachangeuijin” flag and the memorial to Yu In-seok (pen name Uiam) were brought in.
The name “Baeron” was given because of the land’s resemblance to the bottom of a ship. The entrances are small with step angles and the inner land is hard to see. At the same time, it is fully surrounded by mountains and has many mountainous paths linked to Wonji, Chungju, and more. Catholics were persecuted in the Period of the Joseon Dynasty. Believers formed religious settlements like this in places like fortresses. Baeron Sanctuary is a place that continued its Catholic heritage without yielding to persecution. It is full of the heritage of faith and has had an important role in the history of Catholicism in Korea with such distinctions as the first religious school in Korea, the grave of venerable Choi Yang-eob, the Hwang Sayoung white paper, and so on.
In April 26, 2016, Thomas Choi Yang-eob was given the “venerable” title by the Congregation for the Causes of Saints. This was the step prior to sainthood (declaring someone a saint registers them on the list of saints; churches worldwide start respecting them as such immediately). The proclamation is provisionally granted to those going through the beatification process. (A miracle attribution process is currently under way in the Congregation for the Causes of Saints, and he is the first person in the world to receive sainthood as a confessor and not a martyr. This truly is meaningful!)
Thomas Choi Yang-eob lost Francis Choi Kyong-hwan and Mary Yi Seong-rye to persecution and often had to live on the run. He did not lose faith, however. He went up to Seoul and was chosen as a theology student by a French missionary along with the likes of Andrew Kim Dae-geon. He studied abroad in Macao and earned his priesthood. He awaited a chance to return to Korea while serving in Liaodong, China. He finally succeeded after 13 years. He walked over 100 li through the backwoods, or about 2,800 km, per year and did holy work. Working for over 11 years as a priest, he spread the Catholic faith and also continued efforts for social reform, supporting ideas such as getting rid of the caste system. Afterwards, he passed away without any great sin from being overworked and typhoid while on his way to Seoul to report on his activities.
It is said that Hwang Sa-yeong was a talented young man who passed the state examination at 16 years of age. He was the nephew-in-law of Jeong Yak-yong and studied Western Learning in that family. When the persecution of Catholics began later on, Hwang Sa-yeong wrote a letter in this cave to be sent to the bishop in order to rebuild the church and gain freedom of faith. This white paper is currently displayed in the Vatican Folk Museum’s Ancient Tests Lab. What is interesting is the 13,311 perfect Chinese characters written on a small 62 x 38 cm piece of silk. The overall content is regarding spreading Catholicism to stop persecution and attain freedom of faith, but parts of it contained mutinous content, inciting the use of foreign armies to overthrow the government. This was found during an inspection and Hwang Sa-yeong was put to death by breaking on the wheel as a traitor. This white paper worsened the persecution of the Catholic church. This was why his beatification was delayed for a long time despite being a martyr. In 2013, the Vatican officially proclaimed him a “Servant of God,” which is the step prior to becoming proclaimed “venerable.”
As the first ever seminary founded in Korea, St. Joseph’s Seminary was founded by French priests. The subjects and culture of the West were taught there with a focus on philosophy and theology. Mainly using Latin, basic topics, scientific knowledge, medical techniques, geography, and other various topics were taught. It was an evangelizing institution while also being a near modern school that taught at the elementary, middle, and high school levels. When the increased persecution of the Catholic Church led to many priests being martyred, students scattered and the school was closed down after only 11 years of operation.
In Jecheon, there are many sites and artifacts that represent the culture of central Korea throughout history, spanning back to prehistoric times, the Era of the Three Kingdoms, the Period of the Goryeo Dynasty, and even the Period of the Joseon Dynasty. Strangely enough, no artifacts have been found from the Japanese Occupation. Here, there is a sad secret to the history of Jecheon. Jecheon was a big problem to Japan as it was the center for three series of active insurgent activities involving everyone from Confucian scholars to the general public. The Japanese destroyed Jecheon to the ground and everything, including official residences, was turned into ashes after the Jungmi Incident. The damage was so severe that even now, there are no buildings 100 years old or older. Of course the vestiges we will be showing you now are a good look at the dark times under Japanese rule, where the heaven-granted transportation network was used only for exploitation. You will be able to feel the tragedy of Jecheon at the time and the miraculous improvements happening today.
The Storage and Processing Facility for Leaf Tobacco was a place for harvesting and ripening tobacco leaves. When the work began to require more people, the building was rebuilt in 1943 on an L-shaped tract of land using wood and applying a design that considered the ordering, functions, and efficiency of the work. Here, round railings, humidity control devices, ventilation ducts, and other characteristics of a tobacco facility can be found, and the wooden trusses and bolts have been well-preserved. This is regarded as highly valuable as a major facility of the tobacco industry in the modern age.
This is the old office of the Jecheon Tobacco Labor Union. Its arched entrance, wooden structure, and more provide a strong modern feel. Characteristics of the modernized transitional building design and working facilities during the Japanese Occupation can be seen, and it is proving useful for related stuies.
This building was built in 1941 using granite masonry in a Korean piling method (Wanja-type). It has a stronger Korean feeling based on the characteristics of the construction style and roof. In 1941 when the exploitation by the Japanese was at its peak, the office played a central role in exploiting various forest and underground resources, beginning with the opening of Jecheon Station in the middle of the Gyeongsangbuk-do Province-Seoul route. It is now being operated as an ordinary restaurant.
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